Departing McMurdo Sound

February 12, 1994

Looking back at Observation Hill

2:30pm

The people at McMurdo were very friendly. I was helped a couple of times by staff members when I didn't know where to go or how to get someplace. Even through we were probably disrupting the base considerably by our presence in such numbers, they managed to be friendly and smile, and help out when necessary. They seemed a very good natured type of people, with a frontier spirit that made them helpful and interested in what was happening around them, even if it was unusual and not following the usual program for their work.

We just passed the Nathan P. Palmer, a research vessel for the United States Antarctic Program, on its way to McMurdo.

The Nathaniel B. Palmer

3:30pm

We just had a briefing on our potential landing at Cape Evans today by Dave Geddes of the New Zealand Antarctic Program and the Antarctic Heritage Trust. He told us more about the Scott Hut, showed us some slides, and explained the restrictions on our behavior in and near the hut. Dave and two of his coworkers are coming back to New Zealand with us on the Marco Polo. (They've been stationed at Scott Base for the summer.)

Dave handed out a large packet of information from the New Zealand Antarctic Program and the Antarctic Heritage Trust. It's got some very interesting information in it, and he said that we can reproduce it as we please. I believe a direct quote was, "You can do whatever you like with it." So, maybe I'll be able to include it in my Antarctica exhibit.

Unfortunately, the weather is looking pretty bad right now. There are very high winds, and very rough water, so we may not be able to make a landing here. The wind is whistling loudly through all the outer doors of the ship.

Lars-Eric just announced that we will wait here at Cape Evans to see if the weather gets any better, and if it doesn't we'll just have to move on. He said that it's certainly impossible to put a Zodiac in the water as it is now and expect to be able to get to shore safely.

4:00pm

While at McMurdo, we saw a U.S. Coast Guard cutter arrive at the base, passing by us on the way in. The Coast Guard ship went right up to the edge of the water, right next to the shore, and docked next to the ice. I understand that they call this the ice pier, or ice dock. They didn't want us to use it because they were worried about the depth of the water there (the cutter is a bit smaller than the Marco Polo) and also the stability of the ice itself, which is probably deteriorating still from the summer warmth.

Coast Guard cutter docking at the ice dock

It was a little strange to see a U.S. Coast Guard ship so far away from the United States. Of course it makes sense, but it was a little unusual feeling anyway.

Side note

Thanks to Dave Leger of Antarctic Support Associates who pointed out that the Nathaniel B. Palmer is a research vessel, not a supply ship. Dave sent me this info just as he was getting ready to leave on a cruise of the ship itself! (He also mentioned a new ASA web page for the NSF's Antarctic programs. It's worth seeing!)

You can read about how we were prevented from landing at Cape Evans and Cape Royds, or return to today's table of contents.