Arriving at McMurdo Station

February 11, 1994

McMurdo Station

3:45pm

We are here! McMurdo Station, the southernmost point on our Antarctic journey, nerve center for the United States Antarctic Program, and indeed for much of the world's work in Antarctica. This place is huge! Compared to the little huts and collections of sheds and such that we saw elsewhere, McMurdo is a city. It is spread out along the sloping hillside facing McMurdo Sound, and the Marco Polo is anchored maybe half a mile away, or closer.

McMurdo Station

The dozens of green, red, brown, and tan buildings, with ramp-like roads between them and trucks riding along those roads remind me of a toy town, or a toy train set. They seem unreal, maybe because of the pure colors, maybe because of the closeness of the buildings to each other, or maybe because there are so few people visible from here.

McMurdo Station and Zodiac

The feeling I had on seeing McMurdo for the first time was probably best described as sheer joy. I found myself smiling stupidly, staring at the slope of the hills covered with colored buildings, the ramp-like roads that go between them up and down the hillside, the truck moving around on those roads, and the observatories on the hilltops. It just screams, "People are here!"

It's cold outside! And the wind makes it even colder. I can see why no one would want to be outside. I saw a few people in doorways, but everyone else must be inside or in the trucks. Smart people!

If it weren't for the trucks moving around, I'd almost believe that the place were deserted.

There are several observatories on the hilltops nearby. One, off to the north (left), is just a large black ball on top of the mountain ridge. Another, above the station itself, is red and white and smaller.

A nearby satellite earth station for the New Zealand Antarctic program


Side note

After returning to Ann Arbor, I received an e-mail message from Gary Braun of the Center for Advanced Aviation Systems Development at MITRE. He told me that the "observatories" I mentioned above are actually not observatories at all. The dark dome is a satellite earth station for the New Zealand Antarctic program (NZAP), and the red and white ball above the station houses an air traffic control radar system.


There are several places near the shore where they've built what look like docks or piers, or maybe just staging for picking things up off the shore and bringing them up to trucks. Some of them have warehouses nearby, others just have a road leading to them.

It's amazing to see such activity and community here! Humanity is clearly in control here, unlike everywhere else we've seen in the Antarctic, where humanity is just a speck, easily snuffed out by nature's whim. Sure, Antarctica could still destroy McMurdo with a massive eruption of Mt. Erebus, but it would take a lot, and the base seems well prepared for most eventualities. I can easily see why people like Ethan have been calling McMurdo a town or a city. ("Mac Town" is a common slang for this place.)

I can't wait to go ashore!

My grandmother in front of McMurdo Station


You may continue surveying the station from the ship, or return to today's table of contents.